New York Fashion Week proclaims a return to glamour. Now.


Tadashi Shoji

Tadashi Shoji has opted for a digital-only presentation and lookbook this season. The designer took a “borrowed from the boys” approach to his womenswear collection with menswear-inspired textiles like stripes and herringbone jacquard suits, feminized with layered pieces and sultry slits. These were contrasted with more classic evening dresses made with lace and embellishments. There were no traditional fashion rules here, but aren’t rules meant to be broken? Christopher Fraser

Saint Sintra

Well, it was nice to be in a bar (no drinks, but still), and even though the show was extremely late, even by Fashion Week‘s notoriously late standards, Sintra Martins’ show was a weekend delight with clothes in heavy orange mohair plaid and worsted calvary twill. The remarkable dress, a cotton wedding dress, looked like a fantastic cut-out paper, constructed in strange spirals. This spoke to the strengths of all of Martins designs; the construction, the sleekness, the details are all in sync and, unlike so much Fashion Week wear, is worth so much more than a look down the runway. Best of all, they still made you smile the next day. Tim Teeman

Denis Basso

Dennis Basso has a penchant for ostentatious luxury, and his Fall/Winter 2022 collection has stayed true to form. After two years of a seemingly endless pandemic, Basso like many New Yorkers has abandoned the idea of ​​cloistering alone indoors and the comfort fashion that came with it. Her new collection is a celebration of maximalism and being seen. Jeweled garments, feathers and fur adorned every look, and jewel tones as well as jewels adorned everything from jackets to evening wear. Sarah Shears

Kim Shui

Kim Shui’s new collection is a heady mix of playful pastels and lascivious dresses. The first half of the show was a color bomb mix of nubby patchwork tweeds with a 60s and 80s vibe, followed by a sultry mix of sheer lace sets with nipples, skintight leather and dazzling dresses in transparent, black and brown. Sarah Shears


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