Smoking in the boys’ room: barbecue for Father’s Day – and every day | Restaurants


The barbecue is incorporated in the name of the infamous Cowgirl BBQ (319 S. Guadalupe Street). But the dishes the bar and restaurant are named after might get lost in the fairly encyclopedic menu, which has a range of other comfort foods – fried chicken, macaroni and cheese, burgers, nachos, and more. Fortunately, there is no way you will get lost in finding the place. It’s practically a local landmark, with one of the best and most popular patios in town (you would be advised to make reservations for any outdoor dining on a summer weekend, but especially on a day holiday like Father’s Day). On particularly windy afternoons and evenings, the smoke of meaty mesquite will draw you blocks away. The nose knows. Follow him.

Some people claim less is more, but in the case of barbecue, more is usually more. This is certainly the case with the Cowgirl tasting tray, which gives you the opportunity to taste smoked and sweet pork chops; tender glazed boneless chicken (something I had never noticed on the menu before, and will be ordering again); and ground beef brisket that cut easily with a fork but hard to chew. Everything is covered with a tangy brick red sauce that is not too spicy. The platter also includes respectable, non-cloying baked beans, surprisingly commendable Texan toast, and an above-average coleslaw, although the tubers in our mayonnaise-based potato salad were undercooked to the point of. ‘be crispy.

If dad is a fan of gravy-soaked bread, sandwiches are a good option. Smoky spices warm up pulled pork in chipotle sauce and simmered minced beef, each a generous tangle of meat stacked on a tender brioche bun. If he wants a full assortment of fries and coleslaw, direct him to the page cataloging burgers and sandwiches, but note that if he chooses a slider instead, he can enjoy a smaller version of the same. sammich, topped with a bunch of coleslaw and served on a Butter Sweet King’s Hawaiian Roll, for half dinner. Either way, that’ll leave room for her to enjoy the Cowgirl’s popular ice cream baked potato, if that sort of thing is her druthers. Hey, he raised you; let him be a child for a day.


What do you call a pig in a pit, cooked long and slow with smoke rather than fire? Although some may dispute this point, I call it barbecue – and Steve “The Meat Man” Schmidt, pitmaster of Santa Fe barbecue (600 Old Santa Fe Trail), serves it from a vintage red and black truck pulling a mobile smoker.

Schmidt’s pork ribs are the best I’ve had in Santa Fe – tender, juicy, and deeply infused with the smell and flavor of wood smoke, they literally fall off the bone. What Schmidt calls Black Angus Prime Ribs are also on the menu, for people who are biting their teeth in another part of the country and prefer their meat to moo rather than scream.

The Santa Fe Barbecue website says Schmidt combines the slow-smoking traditions of the South with the flavors of New Mexico. Ask him what’s in his dry mix and he’ll admit cocoa and coffee – but not native herbs and spices; it’s a trade secret, he says. Although the ribs are the rock stars of the truck, Schmidt also smokes pork and beef sausages, gigantic turkey thighs, and beef brisket. Part of the pork and brisket is pulled to make iconic barbecue sandwiches. Stacked in a soft bun (to better absorb those drops of smoke) and topped with a good amount of large roasted green chili peppers, these sammies are big enough to share – if you could bring yourself to do it.

Schmidt offers three sauces to accompany his barbecue. The “regular” version has just a touch of vinegar, perfect with ribs. The sweet brown sugar variant brings out the best in chili. The third is hot. Really hot. You can find Schmidt in the parking lot of the New Old Trail Garage on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 10:30 am “until the meat runs out”. To make sure you can get what you want, when you want it, call the Meat Line (505-573-4816) to place an order in advance. And bring cash: it’s the only currency Schmidt accepts. – Patricia West-Barker

Those who are really serious about eating grilled and smoked meats should head to Whole pork coffee (320 S. Guadalupe St.) – they only barbecue, and they do all the barbecue. With offerings like Memphis Pulled Pork (meaning slow cooked in a pit), pulled chicken, beef brisket and ribs, and sausage and pork loin, you can get all of that meats in sandwich form, topped with house coleslaw, or go ahead and order one of their platters. The whole pork comes with pulled pork, brisket and ribs, along with a scoop of deliciously vinegared potato salad, coleslaw and beans. It’s supposed to be enough for a tall person, but easily serves two, and the Ultimate Hog is even bigger and includes pulled chicken. If you want to riff on the barbecue concept, try the Barbecue Nachos or the Loaded Baked Potato topped with your choice of meat.

While Whole Hog does a lively business in take-out and dining, the on-site dining experience is made especially decadent by the pack of six different barbecue sauces sitting on each table. That’s right – you can have unlimited access to an array of this magical, sweet and smoky liquid for the duration of your meal. The sauces run the gamut: 1 is a sweet and molasses-based sauce, 2 is a more vinegared tomato sauce, 3 is a spicier version of it, and so on. Number 6 is especially good, a tangy mustard and vinegar sauce that also works well when generously sprinkled on side dishes. If you want a little more adventure (or the hiccup), ask the person behind the counter for Volcano Sauce on Demand, an almost painfully spicy concoction that is best to try. before you’re going to splash it all over your chest. – Tantri Wija

Santa Fe may not be a barbecue destination like Austin, Memphis, or Kansas City. But the chefs here are eager to revisit the tradition of simmered or smoked meats. BBQ-adjacent items appear on menus across town, including at Dr. Field Goods Kitchen (2860 Cerrillos Road), where chef-owner Josh Gerwin has created an extraordinary sandwich: a crispy pressed torta topped with lean and tender local goat barbacoa slowly roasted and a smear of creamy refried beans, with sliced ​​apples, sliced ​​cabbage and honey-habañero goat cheese.

Southern California transplant recipients who lack the LA tradition of Korean barbecue tacos would do well to stop for lunch at the Asian bonsai tacos truck (1599 S. St. Francis Drive) for a large portion of their pulled pork tacos. Served on three corn tortillas with a tangy Red Rooster sauce, a kale and coleslaw salad and slices of ripe avocado, the smoked and sweet meat has a complex spice profile. Vegetarians or vegans looking for a mock barbecue flavor can try the savory tempeh tacos, which combine nut and nut fried soy squares with the above ingredients and a cashew cream. They pair well with Bonsai’s agua fresca watermelon, affirming the genius of culinary hybridity.

Speaking of cultural exchange, the new Cuisine of the Trinity food truck (1352 Rufina Circle) brought the long-awaited Cajun country sun to town. The truck, run by Shreveport native Eliot Chavanne and Connor Black, opened in late May, but is already a big hitter in the soul-food scene, judging by the reality of the menu. suckling pig po’boy. The Southern Sandwich is nestled in a crispy half-baguette of perfectly seasoned pulled pork in gravy and a crispy coleslaw served with really good fried fries. These potatoes also make a savory base for Trinity’s pulled pork fries, which are layered with an abundance of divine pork, cheddar cheese and finished with streaks of a tangy and addicting remoulade. These dudes are serious about meat – see the USDA Prime tattoo on Chavanne’s forearm – as well as Louisiana’s culinary traditions, judging by the giant bottle of Crystal Hot Sauce that stands out among the offerings. of condiments. Santa Fe is lucky to see them smoking in the Meow Wolf parking lot. – Molly Boyle


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